HEAD HUNTING - LISBON, PORTUGAL - DAY 1

ARRIVAL.

Hey Mom and Dad!

Taking advice from an interview with Anthony Bourdain, I took half of a sleeping pill the moment I got on the plane for the red eye. It was a light load, and miraculously I had an entire row to myself at the very back of the plane. I kicked off my boots, and knocked out from Home to Newark, and again from the East Coast, across the pond to Portugal. I arrived in Lisbon safe and sound at 9AM. I grab a cab to the hostel, and chat with the cabbie. I tell him I'm from the States, and I'm instantly hit with the "Why did America vote for Trump?" conversation. I knew this would come up on my trip, I just wasn't expecting it to happen so soon. I had to relent my embarrassment for being an American while this is happening in our country, and apologize on behalf of our entire nation. What's humbling is knowing the ripple effect of how powerful our country is, and how frightened the whole world feels to have a clinically insane man running our country. At my destination, I leave the cabbie with a hopeful tone that things will get better...I certainly hope so.

I was warmly and immediately welcomed the moment I set foot in the hostel. I met the staff- A fun rag-tag group of mid-20-somethings like me, from everywhere. One guy is from New Jersey, another guy is from Australia, one girl is from NorCal, and the other girl is Irish / Australian. I was extremely jet lagged, and it was too early to check-in. They let me do a bag-drop, and offered me a classic hostel breakfast spread of white bread toast, Nutella, and watered-down coffee in the lobby. Honestly, it was everything I ever wanted. It's a party hostel in a party city, so the vibe is extremely laid back. It's not my first time in a hostel, but I'm reminded once more of the shared dorms, the bunk beds, lockers, and communal bathrooms, all vaguely split amongst young people from all walks of life. I'm revived by the youth filled energy reverberating in the lobby, and I feel that I'm regaining the college experience I never had- I love it. I'm invited by the hostel staff to relax on the sofa to eat breakfast, and watch a movie. My excited spirits are short lived when I melt into the couch. We put on "Deadpool", and my eyelids feel like a million pounds. I know very well I could've slept on the couch, but from experience, I knew better that I need to try to adjust my sleep schedule on the first day. I decide to go out right away. I finish breakfast, and hop to the front desk to ask questions about the attractions I've researched and want to see.

Admittedly, the jet lag is making me completely brain dead. I try to focus on the map, directions, and instructions they give me, but it was all quite fuzzy, and their voices sound like we're all underwater. I thank them, and head out. Two hostel mates caught up with me to grab food first- An early lunch.

Lisbon reminds me of San Francisco, it has lots of steep hills throughout the city, and just as well, has public city trolleys too. The three of us walk down one of these long, steep hills to grab lunch in Rossio Square. With my internal clock warped, I wasn’t very hungry. Wanting to pinch pennies, I just got a sandwich for a few Euros. That ended up doing nothing to help with finances later because I used four cabs all over the city. The first cab was coming from the airport to the hostel, the second and third cab I will explain shortly, and the fourth cab was getting from the Bay back to the hostel. Thankfully, the fourth cab wasn’t too pricey.

Regardless, after lunch, I headed to the hospital. It is here that the best preserved human head lies. The catch, is that the head is from the serial murderer, Diogo Alves. (The Portuguese are obviously not proud of this). "Why would you want to see that Emilie"? Because it’s off the trail and I really wanted to photograph it. You can imagine this turned heads, (pun intended), at the hostel when I inquired about it. I instantly gained a reputation from the Irish / Aussie girl on staff, proclaiming in her Aussie accent, "Yeh, yer quite twisted, ar't yew"? Great, now I'm the American art freak. This attraction is so off the beaten path, that initially, no one could really tell me where it was- Most didn't even know it existed. My downloaded map was my only reference for location for where it COULD be.

I get out of the cab, and I end up at a University. Very tired and confused, I walk all over campus to look for an info center, but of course, there isn’t one. I stop in at a gymnasium and the guy tells me it’s across the street at the hospital. I find the info center there, and speak with the front desk, asking for a severed head in a jar. They don't speak English, (probably to my benefit in preserving my dignity when conducting a literal head hunt). Instead, they summon an English speaker on staff. When he approaches moments later, I tell him "I'm looking for the head of Diogo Alvez". I'm elated to find out he's the first person to know what I'm talking about. He leads me right away. We dodge coughing patients, bandaged, crying patients on gurneys, moving wheelchairs- Some with patients in them. We're surrounded by medical students, and people who are actually dying, while I'm being swiftly led away through the maze of the building. With my new guide, we explore for about 20mins, slipping in and out of passages, asking people questions for the correct room, winding through corridors, going upstairs, downstairs, then upstairs again... With my heightened anticipation, I could feel we were getting close to the head. We finally get to the Head of Pathology, (yes pun fully intended, even though this is her title). The guide and I ask her our burning question, but we are left headless as the horseman when she informs us that the remnant of Diogo Alvez is on exhibition in the northern part of Portugal for three months. I thank the guide many times for his trouble before he leaves us. The Head of Pathology can see my disappointment, and lets me examine and photograph all of the other cool body parts preserved in jars. The moment she opens the double doors to the other room where the remains are, I do feel as though I'm stepping onto a medical film set based in the 50s. The tables for studying and examining specimens are metallic, sterile, and cold. The room itself is well lit with gothic windows from the old architecture of the hospital building. This light is offset by the large, round fluorescent lamps above the tables when she flicks the switch. This profession is her passion, and she's delighted to give me the tour. Being a science enthusiast, and all-around geek myself, it's fun to be giddy and passionate about these things together. I enthusiastically ask questions about preservation, and photograph everything. *(And now you, the Reader, think I'm "quite twisted" too). After the full tour, I shake her hand and thank her a million times. Although I didn't get what I came for, I left fully satisfied and happy to have met my two new acquaintances.

Another cab, and off to the Jeronimos Monastery. I get out and seek the entrance. It's Monday, and it is of course, "Closed on Mondays". I didn’t want to get another cab because I was sure I could figure out how to get back either by walking, or by way of a public trolley. On my way back, I by happenstance walk past Pasteis de Belem- The best known pasteis place in Lisbon. Pasteis is a custard pastry that Portugal is famous for. It looks and tastes like a creme brulee in the shape of a miniature pie. I grab one for the road, and carry on. I pass under the Ponte 25 de Abril Bridge. I learn later that this bridge is to remember the Portuguese Carnation Revolution in 1974. But to me and many other tourists, it's best known for its striking resemblance to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. Taking in the sights, everything was awesome. But by now, I had been walking for 3-4 hours and there was no way I was finding my way back. I was totally lost, very exhausted, and my feet were actually starting to hurt.

After passing the bridge, a trendy hipster spot, walking along the Bay, and coming to Praca do Comercio, (a main, open square facing the Bay), I relented and took a cab which was fairly cheap- Thank God. Now, I’m back at the hostel resting. There’s dinner tonight at 9PM for 7euros. We’re eating Portuguese soup- Cheap, and delicious. They’re also doing a pub crawl later, and clubbing for 15euros. This is also very cheap, but I don’t think I can make it haha! 

I'm so excited for Komal / Kay to come in tomorrow so we can see the rest of it! (Hopefully on the metro this time). I haven't seen Kay since Kinnera's wedding nearly a year ago, and even then, we barely could hang out and catch up. Regardless, I'm really glad she's taking this break before she's officially an E.R. Doctor, and I can take this once-in-a-lifetime Euro trip with my best friend.

Talk to you guys tomorrow.

-eM